Ewens-Downing Adventures in Asia

After spending the day with our friend Ernie, we left the splendor of the Peninsula Hotel in another Rolls Royce limo and headed out to the Hong Kong airport. Our flight was on All Nippon Airways (ANA), a Boeing 747, again in Business Class. The nose end of the plane was configured for first class seating, but the seats were sold as business. We had huge full reclining bed seats. We had our creature comforts. Little did we know that we would soon lose all concept of what comfort was.

Before we boarded in Hong Kong, the gate staff unfurled a large sheet of paper that had written text in Japanese and English warning us that there was a typhoon expected in Tokyo that evening and we might not be able to land there. Why they didn’t just cancel at that point still astounds us. But we took off on-time and settled in for about a 4 hour flight.

As we flew over Japan, there were numerous announcements over the P.A. from the pilot, sometimes with a broken English translation, sometimes not. The chief purser was one of our business class stewardesses and several times she came before the two of us and the other two non-Japanese speakers (in this case two German businessmen) and knelt down with a worried brow explaining that we might not get to Tokyo. At one point, they were talking about landing in Osaka, which is about 3 to 4 hours by train from Tokyo. But the plane forged onward toward Tokyo, only having to circle for about an hour before the pilot said he was going in for a landing. We started down and the landing gear came down, but then the pilot pulled up sharply and then announced we couldn’t land and were going to Osaka, about an hour away and that we should land there at 10:25 pm. Ron asked the purser what that meant–would we get a hotel? Again, she had a furrowed brow and said something like she didn’t know but not to worry. Of course, we thought, the airline would take care of us. We were, after all, in business class, right?

We landed in Osaka about when they said we would but then waited at the gate for an hour and 20 minutes. They kept saying that there was no ground personnel available (saying “so sorry”). Just before midnight, they let us off the plane to the jet way where ANA staff was handing out envelopes with $30,000 yen to each passenger (about $300), a danish and some orange juice. And that was it. Exhausted and confused, we plodded through to customs.

The customs agent wanted to know why Ron left the box saying where we were staying blank. He said basically that we didn’t plan on being in Osaka that night and had no idea where we were at or where we would stay. Next we claimed our luggage and went to the ANA service desk which was in complete chaos. Apparently quite a few other planes had landed in Osaka for this same reason. We seemed to be the last. So we of course had far fewer choices available to us.

There were no hotels available anywhere in Osaka, not at the airport and not in the center city (again “so sorry”). And besides, the last train for the center city had already left, so why did we want to go there, they asked? We thought maybe to get a train to where we were supposed to be? But the last train was at midnight and we were almost 45 minutes cab ride to the center city anyway.

Ron got the message loud and clear that it made no difference that we were in business class or that he has Gold status in the Star Alliance program (ANA is in with United, Luftansa, Singapore, etc). The $30,000 yen was it. (”So sorry”) They would make us a reservation the next morning for a flight to Tokyo that might or might not go because of the typhoon, and at our own expense. Because this was a weather diversion, they were through with us once the plane landed in Osaka.

We tried to consider our options, I called a Hilton in the center city where we’re staying in about 10 days. All they had was a smoking room for $400 and the executive suite for $1500 — those are in US dollars not yen. By the time we decided to try for a cab to the center city, they had sold the smoking room. At this point we had no other option but to spend what was left of the night at the airport. Oh, joy.

The airline had given out blankets and sleeping bags. While we were trying to find out what our options were other people had grabbed all the chairs in the airport and had settled in for the night. Someone had vacated one chair near an elevator so we grabbed it. While I went to the washroom Ron tried to get some sleep. But he was able to due to a repeating “bing bong” that the elevators make constantly. (So that’s why the other people left!) We finally ended up under an escalator on the floor, creating a little “cave” by barricading the entrance with our luggage. In under 24 hours we had gone from living the high life at the Peninsula to being essentially homeless people living under a staircase. Thanks typhoon X and ANA!

Somehow the morning managed to wind its way to around 5AM. As the sun rose we got in line to buy tickets with 300 other people noting that the display board still said “Questionable” as to whether the flight would go due to weather. When Ron purchased the tickets he asked the agent if we shouldn’t have just gotten rebooked to Tokyo at no charge. She said back in broken English “so sorry” that we’d need to pay and then talk to “International Services”. We finally boarded the flight, again being told that it might have to turn back to Osaka. Well, we finally did land in Tokyo but without a lot of translating of the announcements in Japanese.

We found a YCAT bus from to Yokohama, arriving about 8:30 and was told by hotel staff that a room wouldn’t be ready until 2pm. Though I was a member of their frequent stay club and guaranteed early check in we still got the “so sorry, room not ready”. We finally got taken to a room at 12:45 but it was smoking, “Oh, so sorry!” And another 20 minutes before they got us non-smoking. Ron crashed in bed no doubt dreaming of people telling him “so sorry,” not to be heard from for several hours. I jumped into the tub and took a bubble bath while admiring the view and winding-down. For the moment we were once again princes.

Above is the bathtub with the portal above it. Did I mention that we were staying at the Yokohama Royal Park hotel? It is on the highest floors of the tallest building in Japan, the Landmark Tower. Our room was on the 57th floor. My ears popped every time we went up and down in the elevator.

Looking back on this experience we can laugh about it. But at the time we were exhausted and completely vexed by the circumstances that were totally beyond our control. As they say in Japan, “cho utoshi.” So irritating! This event simply gave us a low point to go up from! After all, it couldn’t get any worse. (grin)

We got back from Stanley in time to have afternoon tea at the Peninsula. Being that the hotel came from British origins, naturally they would have a proper English tea each afternoon. We had seen people having tea in the lobby restaurant. I was looking forward to it. Years ago we had tea at the Empress Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia. We wanted to continue the tradition at another famous world hotel.

After being seated we each ordered our selections of tea. I had an Earl Grey while Ron had the Darjeeling. It was fun to see the tea served with all the pomp and circumstance. They used little coseys on the pots to protect our fingers from the heat. In no time the three-tiered tray of snacks arrived. Per tradition we ate from the top-up. The first tier had butter scones. The second, finger sandwiches. And the third the sweets. It was nice to take some time out from the running around to just enjoy the ambiance of the Peninsula. While we ate and drank a live trio of piano, cello and drums played Beatles tunes from a balcony above. It was sublime.

Once inside the Peninsula Hotel we did our best not to look like wide-eyed tourists. (Which of course we were.) As Ron checked us in, I scoped-out the lobby.

As you can see, the lobby quite lives up to the reputation of “the Pen.” But could our room do as well for us? We had no idea what we were in store for. We took the elevator up the tower. This is a newer building added to the back of the original Peninsula Hotel building. The bell boy politely took our key, opened the door and led us into our suite, the “Whisper of Pine” room.

OK, now I’m going to switch into a sappy Hollywood presentation voice…

What do we find upon entering the room? Looks like some double doors just beyond the foyer. And who could that be waiting inside?

It’s your dear E&D Adventure hosts, Ron and Louis.

There were some welcome treats waiting for the weary travelers. On the coffee table was a presentation of custom chocolates made especially for the hotel and the ubiquitous fruit basket. But this time it contained some varieties we weren’t familiar with. (Ask Ron about his encounter with the Dragon Fruit.) On the desk was some welcome tea. (And if you like the tea set it is available for purchase in the hotel gift shop.)

Needless to say, we were impressed. But wait! There’s more! What is through these double doors? Ah, the bedroom.

You can’t see it because the windows were fogged-over the morning I took those initial photos. But ultimately there was one selling point that drew us to this hotel and this room. That would be the view…

This view is from the Kowloon side of the harbor to Hong Kong island. I have many MANY more photos of the view. Just wait until you see the skyline at night.

We were finally in Hong Kong. So we thanked our bell boy and sent him on his way. After getting cleaned-up and changed we went out and about on safari for Starbucks. Luckily we found one just around the corner from the hotel.

Sorry we’ve been so late in posting. It’s hard work being a tourist. By the time we get back to the room we’re usually exhausted. But I’ll catch-up eventually.

Upon exiting our flight in Hong Kong we were greeted by a smiling representative of The Peninsula Hotel. He took our bags and asked us to follow him outside. After the long flight and it being 5AM in the morning, we were zombies willing to follow him anywhere at this point. He led us outside to the limo waiting area where our driver and our Rolls Royce Phantom limousine greeted us. This was definitely a “Woa…” moment. Even dazed and confused both our jaws dropped at the sight of the Rolls. We knew they were beautiful and opulent… but THIS beautiful and opulent? We got in and settled ourselves in for the smoothest ride ever to the hotel.

Upon arriving at the hotel we took an exit shot from the limo in front of one of the two guardian dog statues near the entrance to the hotel. The statue reminded me of a certain guardian dog we have back home. After a 13 hour flight we were clearly out of it. But the energy and excitement of the event encouraged us to enjoy ourselves.

The Peninsula Hotel is surely one of the most renowned and famous hotels of the world. Everything there is immaculate and beautiful. From the moment you step inside, you are transported into a hotel world that one can only imagine from what we see in movies and television. It is quite amazing.

Coming from such a rich history, Ron and I wanted to take the opportunity to enjoy what the hotel had to offer. If we were going to stay there, we wanted to really enjoy ourselves. Ron found a package on the hotel’s web site that gave us a suite and some other benefits at a good price. So we knew what we were getting. But not having ever stayed at the “Pen,” we didn’t quite know all the details yet. As you will read in my next entry, what we got in return more than justified the price of admission.